Eating In Translation

Haato and Co.

This durian, would you believe, wasn't Haato's most forthright flavor.

Bengawan Solo

In durian-loving Singapore, the fresh fruit is famously banned from mass transportation, most hotels, and many other public accommodations; confected durian knows no such restrictions. Top: durian salat (S$1, about 75 U.S. cents at the time), blended with the coconut jam called kaya, on sticky rice. Below: a durian-filled pukis (Poo-kiss, 90 Singapore cents), a molded cake native to Indonesia, childhood home of the founder of the Bengawan Solo chain.

Bengawan Solo
International Plaza, 01-17
10 Anson Rd., Singapore
65-6221-0638
(One of many locations)
www.BengawanSolo.com.sg
(From a summer 2010 visit)

Durian Telecom

Durian Telecom
International Plaza, 01-78
10 Anson Rd., Singapore
65-6223-1206
(From a summer 2010 visit)

Huat Kee

ABC, or air batu campur ("mixed ice") is an increasingly common name for this cold dessert, owing to the many add-ins.

Annie's Peanut Ice Kachang

In common with many ice kachang vendors, Annie's prepares a variety of cold desserts; the nearly obscured window gives some idea.

Jin Ji Mei Shi

Suan pan zi are commonly called abacus seeds, or abacus beads, from their resemblance to the counters on the calculating tool.

"Don't pay more than you should..."

"...know your food prices, order at the stalls" and not, presumably, from roaming touts. A response, in all probability, to a notorious incident of overcharging by a BBQ seafood vendor the year before.

"Don't pay more than you should..."
Newton Food Centre, Singapore
(From a summer 2010 visit)

Produce stall

Dirty work: Lotus roots (technically, rhizomes, but we'll stick with the usual moniker) are typically harvested from the bottom of ponds. These, still slicked with mud, were otherwise indistinguishable from the roots at extreme left. Perhaps the mud was retained as a mark of freshness; it certainly seemed to help sales.

Produce stall
Chinatown Complex Food Centre, stall B1-130, Singapore
(From a summer 2010 visit)

Air kathira stall

In the Malay language, "air" means "water"; "kathira," or "katira," offers a sticker problem in translation. The proprietor, and a couple of passers-by, could offer no insight except that it's a common fast-breaking beverage during Ramadan; as with eggnog, many drink it, but few can elaborate on the etymology. Possibly "kathira" is a loanword from Urdu, denoting a gum derived from sap and used as a thickener.

Of several available flavors, I eventually settled on pale green pandan (S$2.00, about US$1.50 at the time) over golden durian.

Air kathira stall
At a Ramadan bazaar on Geylang Road near the Joo Chiat Complex, Singapore
(From a summer 2010 visit)

Lao Liang Cold Trotters & Shark Meat

Queued for Teochew surf 'n' turf.

Zhao An Granny Grass Jelly

On its own the jelly isn't all that sweet.

Fried-food stall

Fish sticks, after a fashion: Keropok lekor, a specialty of the northeastern Malaysian state of Terengganu, are a blend of fish paste and sago. Traditionally they're hand-rolled, though these have a mass-produced, extruded look, then tossed in the deep fryer. My fellow Ramadan bazaar browsers and I got a half-and-half order (S$2.00, about US$1.50 at the time) — four chewy, four crispy.

Fried-food stall
At a Ramadan bazaar on Geylang Road near the Joo Chiat Complex, Singapore
(From a summer 2010 visit)

Indian fritter stall

Prawn vadai (three for S$2.00, about US$1.50 at the time) were soft-bodied yet chewy, and laced with bits of hot green pepper.

Indian fritter stall
At a Ramadan bazaar on Geylang Road near the Joo Chiat Complex, Singapore
(From a summer 2010 visit)

Grilled otah stall

Consider yourself cautioned.

Sweets stall

Most of the wares at this Malay-run stall reflected the owners' heritage. I'd only recently arrived from Kuala Lumpur, where I'd had my fill of Malaysian sweets (if you can believe it), but I let myself be tempted by this Middle Eastern style custard. Very eggy; decorated with raisins and slivered cashews.

Sweets stall
At a Ramadan bazaar near Sultan Mosque, vicinity of Muscat St., Singapore
(From a summer 2010 visit)

Traditional Haig Road Putu Piring

It's like the old shell game, except they all turn up winners.

Toa Payoh Rojak

Hey, bud.

115 Tang Shui

"I hate factory-made food."

"Hotplate deer meat"

No matter how many times I visit Singapore or how long I stay, there's never enough time to hunt down every dish. The last time I was out in this neck of the woods, the shutters were down and the hotplates were cold.

"Hotplate deer meat"
Old Airport Road Cooked Food Centre, Singapore
(From a summer 2010 visit)

"This mess is not okay..."

"...please return your dirty tray." The message, posted at one of Singapore's government-run hawker centers, can also be adapted to New York's public dining spaces, on the street or otherwise.

"This mess is not okay..."
Zion Riverside Food Centre, Singapore
(From a summer 2010 visit)