The Teochew people, including a grandfather of Er Tong Yong, the Singapore-born proprietor of this stall, hail from eastern Guangdong province, in China. This lunchtime-only operation serves two of that region's better-known delicacies, though in truth, at any given meal you'd order just one dish or the other. (To try both, I made a return visit.)
As at the sharkmeat vendor I came across in Taipei, Lao Liang makes full use of the fish, which this day had been a single two-foot specimen, perhaps a nurse shark. My plate included not only a sampling of the dorsal fin, which sometimes is wantonly and wastefully harvested, but also the caudal fin, the stomach, and the fatty, chewy layer from just under the skin — all gently steamed, and all delicious.
Also shown: a pair of chili sauces and a chilled pork-trotter presentation. This was set without the use of additional gelatin, simply by boiling and cooling the trotters, and had a meatier mouthfeel than your usual pork in aspic.
Lao Liang Cold Trotters & Shark Meat
Berseh Food Centre, stall 02-37, Singapore
Lunchtime only; closed Monday
(From a summer 2010 visit)