Absent visual evidence, you might imagine that sojouk in pita ($4) would involve a pocketed bread filled with chunks of heavily seasoned sausage. I'd already perused the display case at this Lebanese joint, so the appearance of the sojouk — ground "marinated spicy beef" that probably had never seen the inside of a sausage casing — was no surprise.
But the pita, I soon saw, was a broad pocket-free flatbread that was rolled around the beef, and tomatoes and pickles, too. At this point, unlike Mango's other pitas, it was toasted under a sandwich press — a nontraditional touch, acknowledged a co-owner, applied simply because it "tastes better." Toasting can do that.
Mango's New York
25-89 Steinway St. (25th-28th Aves.), Astoria, Queens