The traditional filling of a pastilla features squab — this one ($12), like many nowadays, employs chicken — but you could understandably imagine it as the final course of the evening. Not only for the dusting of sugar and cross-hatching of cinnamon outside, or the crushed almond that figures prominently inside, but also for the warqa. This super-flaky relation of phyllo requires gentle cutting, or else you'll raise cloud of sugar and cinnamon that inevitably settles on the nearest dark clothing.
Also shown: a succulent, sweetly sauced lamb shank with prunes ($12), and the restaurant — previously, a pizzeria, as you may have guessed.
Moroccan Hospitality Restaurant
188 Salem St. (at Wolcott St.), Malden, Massachusetts
(From a September 2011 visit)