Specifically, on futomaki, the fattest of those Japanese sushi rolls. But even by that standard, my burdock kimbab ($4.50) was well filled-out with rice, spinach, carrot, seasoned burdock, and thin-sliced egg and fish cake. Sausage, supposedly, was to be included, too; its place was perhaps occupied by pickled daikon, also draped on top.
Sushi rolls often have a sophisticated appeal. None of that for blue-collar kimbab: This roll was long enough that several slices had to be tucked sideways into the container. Any possible remaining concerns about filling my belly were addressed by the extras at the bottom of the takeout bag, a half-pint of tomatoey-peppery soup replete with cabbage and bean sprouts, and a hardboiled egg.
Also shown, from across Northern Blvd.: "Celadon Fragments" (detail), by Jean Shin, a mosaic of bits and pieces donated by kilns in Icheon, South Korea.
Song's Family Food
162-20 Northern Blvd. (162nd-163rd Sts.), Murray Hill, Queens
Also at the corner of 153rd St. and 34th Ave.