On this occasion Kababish (kuh-Bah-beesh) was serving not only baby goat curry but also this baby goat liver (special, about $7). Though not nearly as forthright as luncheonette-style beef liver, even in the face of of vibrant South Asian seasoning its flavor was unmistakeable. Also shown: rice speckled with cumin seeds; a patty stuffed with turmeric-stained chicken (about $1.50); the snug premises by night. Unless you arrive at off-hours as I did, you're unlikely to snag one of the two stools.
70-64 Broadway (near 72nd St.), Jackson Heights, Queens