Though this Asian-Cajun restaurant appeared on my radar in January, I didn't make time to try it till a Chowhound observed that the menu matches that of Cal-Tex chain The Boiling Crab. I came at the menu sideways, testing the kitchen's skill with calamari ($9.99), which was underfried, and gumbo ($5.99), whose thin roux tasted of bouillon.
During my midafternoon lunch the restaurant was nearly deserted (it's open from 3:00 weekdays, noon weekends), but, later, through the window, I observed seafood bibs and metal buckets at more than one table. The "down n' dirty" seafood boils — choose a crustacean, a seasoning, and a spice level, mix and match as you please — are formulaic, but folks seemed to be having fun.
Boat House
4807 Eighth Ave. (48th-49th Sts.), Sunset Park, Brooklyn
718-633-5880
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