Pan-fried chicken (quarter, dark, meat only, $6) was crisp outside, moist and tender inside, more gently spiced than the full-flavored fowl served by Charles Gabriel. Those Manhattan birds have the edge, though by little more than the thickness of a Florida Ave. chicken skin.
Florida Avenue Grill
1100 Florida Ave. N.W. (at 11th St. N.W.), Washington, D.C.