In an earlier life the Mill Korean Restaurant, near Columbia University, in New York, was a luncheonette and purveyor of school supplies. Some years ago it began a slow-motion transformation and, for a period of 18 months or so, did business as an odd hybrid of greasy spoon and bibimbap joint.
For more than two decades Korean-American-owned Mark's Kitchen has straddled a similar divide, but on larger, cheerier, and better-ventilated premises. To accompany acorn squash ($9.95), stuffed with barley, spinach, red pepper, spring onion, and mushroom, sweet tea served me just fine. If I'd ordered the steak-and-kimchi omelet, however, I would have missed the sole legacy item on the Mill's menu; Mark's doesn't make a lime rickey.
Also shown: a gingerbread sundae ($5.95). The ice cream and the candied topping are ginger-flavored, too.
7006 Carroll Ave., Takoma Park, Maryland