This Polish diner was newish when Irene Sax profiled it for her Eats Beat column in 1997, and, except for the addition of a flatscreen television, little seems to have changed with the years. It's a walk-down, well-maintained if somewhat dim and drab, with an unhurried air. On the day I visited, several couples and families had made it their destination for a late-afternoon meal.
Most were digging into plates as well-loaded as mine. While heavy, fatty soul food is in retreat at many Manhattan establishments — today often it co-stars with lighter fare — here in Greenpoint the Polish equivalent has hunkered down as resolutely as the decor. The sauerkraut that accompanied my pork hock dinner ($7.75) contained mushrooms as well as bits of fried kielbasa. Potatoes, alas, were dry.
68 Newell St. (Nassau-Driggs Aves.), Greenpoint, Brooklyn