From their translucent shimmer it's plain that these cold skin noodles ($4) — advertised days earlier by a handwritten, English-only sign — aren't identical to the liang pi at Xi'an Famous Foods. Though most of Panda's staff are Fujianese, the mustached fellow doing much of the prep work comes from Northeast China.
His very slippery Dongbei la pi, made from mung beans, are dressed with carrot, cucumber, vinegar, garlic, and chili. Liang fen, similar noodles also made from mung beans, are often cut much thicker, as in this spicy dish at Lan Sheng.
Panda Dumpling House
107 Hester St. (at Eldridge St.), Manhattan
212-625-1115
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