Though listed on the menu simply as arroz con calamares ($7.75), the coloring might just as well have been spelled out on a blackboard. At sea, squids squirt ink to baffle pursuing predators; at old-line Puerto Rican lunch counters like "The Gold Cup," it's understood that the same ink imbues the rice with a subtle brininess. In grocery aisles, you might also find a ready-to-prepare version packaged as calamares en su tinta — squid in its own ink.
La Taza de Oro
96 Eighth Ave. (14th-15th Sts.), Manhattan