Most everywhere else, "chop shop" suggests shady goings-on.
Here it heralds the bright flavors of New Orleans fare, prepared outdoors and in full view of the patio seats. The name is a riff on Tchoupitoulas (Chop ih Too lahs), a long-vanished Native American tribe commemorated by a street close by the Mississippi River. In much the same vein, maque choux (Mahk shoe) is probably a Cajun rendition of a Native American name for a dish based on corn. It's often served as an accompaniment, but this crawfish maque choux ($12) — heavy with crustaceans, bolstered by tasso ham and bacon, and enriched with cream — can easily take top billing.
Also shown: brisket-duck liver boudin balls ($6), in a fresh-fried stack and in biteaway view; a spicy filé gumbo ($8), flavored with the namesake dried, ground sassafras leaves as well as chicken, tasso, and andouille sausage, and a not-unrepresentative spoonful of the same; deviled eggs ($3).
Tchoup Shop
Wintering at Heavy Woods Bar, 50 Wyckoff Ave. (at Willoughby Ave.), Bushwick, Brooklyn; 929-234-3500
Wednesday through Friday, 5:00-11:00; Saturday and Sunday, 2:00-11:00
Returning with warmer weather to d.b.a. Brooklyn, 113 North Seventh St. (Berry St.-Wythe Ave.), Williamsburg, Brooklyn; 347-223-2710
Saturday and Sunday, 2:00-8:00ish, "from May until the end of Saints football season"
www.TchoupShop.com
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