These Lincoln Logs of eggplant ($9), charred and cooled, are stacked under tumbledown chilies and chopped peanuts; the careful plating bespeaks an attentive, able kitchen. In the face of such deliciousness, it's OK not to play with your food.
Also shown: mala fried chicken (special, $11), just a bit dry, but well-complemented by wedges of lime and julienned, vinegared cucumber; a deep bowl of market fried rice (special, $11) with peas and garlic scapes, light on the oil; and a pot of Yunnan pu'erh tea ($7) that hinted at hay. For another occasion, a draft list that includes both Victory Prima Pils and Sixpoint Bengali Tiger has much to recommend it.
79 Clinton St. (Rivington-Delancey Sts.), Manhattan