Dough Nation — the mobile wood-fired oven of Westchester restaurant The Cookery — usually turns out Neopolitan pies at farmer's markets close to home. But on the occasion of East Harlem's annual Giglio di Sant' Antonio Feast, the trailer-mounted oven was towed down to Manhattan, to the stretch of Pleasant Ave. anchored by Rao's.
The five-pizza roster includes a margarita and a bianco, a meatball and a sausage; the last sports green tomato jam. But at the sotto voce suggestion of the lady taking the orders, I gave the nod to a pie featuring fresh lemon and smoked mozzarella, with basil and garlic ($11). The citric and smokey flavors balanced each other well; normally I'd favor more garlic, though one can understand a lighter touch that doesn't overpower the lemon. Given another turn or two in the oven, the chewy crust would have been crisped just right.
Also shown from the feast: the giglio; performers riding aboard it; lifters.
Mobile pizza oven of The Cookery
38 Chestnut St., Dobbs Ferry, New York
Encountered at the Giglio di Sant' Antonio Feast
Pleasant Ave. near 114th St., Manhattan
August (the 2012 feast was celebrated August 9-12)