The best bite was between the bread.
At this self-described "bakery bar," the heart of the menu is given over to oven-fresh savories and sweets, ready to pair with beer or coffee. Below: A cheese-laced pretzel bun and a Danish poppy loop (about $3 each) were fine; a baked Alsatian "flaming pie" ($12) arrived extinguished, perhaps served that way for safety's sake, but also more buttery-oily than bacony-oniony; a Linzer cake ($4.75) employed brown butter that overpowered any hazelnut flavor.
It's hard to find fault, however, with the pork-and-veal farmer's brat ($8). The natural casing was satisfyingly snappy, the condiments, snappier: They included a sinus-clearing mustard even sharper than the horseradish. Find a spot to park your elbows on the short marble-topped bar, and you can peruse the taps for the Bavarian brewery Hoss; Landbrot is the only Stateside venue that serves these beers on draft.
Landbrot Bakery
137 Seventh Ave. South (Charles-West 10th Sts.), Manhattan
212-255-7300
Also at 185 Orchard St. (East Houston-Stanton Sts.)
212-260-2900
www.LandbrotBakery.com
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