Margie's Red Rose Diner

It's not key lime, but it is in the citrus family.

In appearance and texture, the filling and crust of this lemonade pie ($3.50) are very familiar. The taste is less puckeringly tart than key lime, however, without being overly sweet, and once you start in on a slice, there's little chance you'll put down your fork.

With the passing of chef-owner Margie McCray in November 2009, her namesake diner shut its doors. At the time, her daughter Ayoka Bell told me that she wasn't yet sure about the future of the business. But bearing in mind the histories of M&G Diner, which closed in June 2008, and Louise's Family Restaurant, which didn't long survive a New York Times article from August of that year, I resigned myself to the loss of one more soul food restaurant.

Wonderful, then, that Ayoka and her husband, Michael, have reopened their diner amid several fits and starts. Makeovers have added polish indoors and out but left the menu largely in place. Shown below: a fried porkchop platter ($11.50), baked chicken ($10), and, from 2007, the celebrated fried chicken ($10), whose crunchy-crisp casing sealed in the juices very well, for the dark meat particularly. (Sometimes it's good to be thin-skinned.)

Biscuits are still absent. Margie's were a treasure, but she made them by feel rather than from any recipe, and restoring them to the menu will be a challenge. Peach cobbler, too, has not made its return, but several dense forkfuls into a slice of sweet potato pie ($2), you'll hardly miss it.

Margie's Red Rose Diner
275 West 144th St. (Frederick Douglass-Adam Clayton Powell Jr. Blvds.)
212-491-7685
www.Facebook.com/pages/Margies-Red-Rose-Diner/112044248848712

Comments

[Polecat]

Glad to hear this place is still around, Dave. I hit it years ago, loved it. Charming, tiny, friendly place. I felt like I was walking into someone's kitchen.
Happy eating.
P.

[Dave Cook]

This was my first visit, and perhaps the diner has expanded; in addition to a 6-to-8-seat "kitchen," there's a "front room" with garlands of plastic roses hanging from the ceiling. That's where I sat, with two hungry cops, a pair of conversationalists who didn't eat or budge the hour I was there, a handful of actual customers, and one fellow watching Judge Maria Lopez on the TV.

[Polecat]

Alas, I fear the worst and put off the inevitable. One online source has Margie's listed as closed at the above address. I called the number, and it was out of service. I loved this joint.
P.

[Dave Cook]

Appreciate the heads-up, Peter, despite the sad news I learned upon visiting the restaurant.

[michael bell]

we are glad to announce that Margie's Red Rose Diner has reopened on Oct 2
2010 come and get your grub on. The restaurant has been totally remodeled
by Ayoka and her husband Michael but the same southern style flavor is still being served.

[michael bell]

Follow us on our facebook page:
Margie's Red Rose Diner L.L.C.

[DJ Haywire]

I tasted the Fried Chicken it's slammin!

[www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=709991094]

I cannot wait to re-visit this wonderful, wonderful place. The re-opening restores my faith that God's in Heaven and all's well with the world.

They've turned potato salad from a comfort food into an art form.

What a fine way to honor the memory of the great lady who started this adorable place!

[Mark Satlof]

Margie always had sweet things to say about my kids, now 6 and 9 who've grown up eating ag Margies, and we miss her. But wandering around the neighborhood yesterday we were so psyched the place is back. The fried fish hasn't lost a step. It's a miracle they're back! My only worry is Coco wants to change the charming facade.