(This venue is closed.) Masa de maiz, corn-based dough, is the default for this storefront's 14 varieties of Salvadoran pupusa (15, if you include the off-menu pupusa featuring jalapeno, reportedly popular with Mexican customers). The two shown here feature cheese with some type of winter squash, and cheese with the leafy vegetable called chipilin ($2 each). From the way they gently oozed at the touch of my knife, both had clearly been fresh-made.
Too late I learned from a manager of an option that I haven't encountered at other New York pupuserias: For 25 cents more, one can substitute masa de arroz, made with rice. Neither corn nor rice is identified with a particular region of the country, noted the manager, adding that the chef previously ran her own restaurant in the capital, San Salvador.
64-03 Roosevelt Ave. (64th-65th Sts.), Woodside, Queens