Many restaurants wear their national colors, but the facade of this husband-and-wife operation encircles them in an uncommonly tight closeup: He comes from Guyana, she comes from Trinidad. Below, a small star and crescent indicate that the restaurant keeps halal. (As of 2014, a newer awning still sends all the same signals, but less compactly.)
The menu offers many light bites such as saheena ($1.50), a fritter usually made from a split-pea batter laced with young taro leaves, and shaped into a ball or patty. S&A's employs spinach, a common substitution, and is served folded in two. Like doubles, it carries a messy but delicious payload of curried chickpeas.
S&A West Indian Restaurant
103-06 Liberty Ave. (103rd-104th Sts.), Ozone Park, Queens
Open seven days, but only till 6:00