Some versions of Lithuanian koldunai ($6.95) look more like Polish pierogi. These snugly wrapped meat dumplings resemble tortellini, but the accompanying bacon and sour cream transported them north from Italy into brisker, Baltic territory.
Koldunai are a fixture on this bar-restaurant's regular menu. Several additional Lithuanian items — kugelis, cepelinai, desreles — are offered at brunch on the final Sunday of the month. Not every month, however; call ahead to be sure.
71-22 Myrtle Ave. (at 71st Pl.), Glendale, Queens