In Annie Hall, growing up under a roller coaster was just a sight gag; for Fuzhou Good Taste Grocery, doing business under the rumbling Manhattan Bridge is an everyday affair.
The proprietors' most celebrated offering, a mustard green sandwich ($1.25), is prepared and cellophane-wrapped long in advance, so the sesame-seeded bing that frames it may be pliable in the morning but stiff late in the day. This was the latter, but, even so, how often do you spend so little green for so much green?
Also shown: warm, fresh-scooped soy custard with syrup (a number of years ago, $1; nowadays, perhaps an extravagant $1.50 or so).
Fuzhou Good Taste Grocery
75 East Broadway (Market-Forsyth Sts.), Manhattan