Granted, my "marinaio" ($11) didn't have quite the mass of the fried calamari hero at the former Cono and Sons, even allowing for the effects of the panino press and the addition of a side salad. Yet the scales tip in favor of Saraghina's sandwich thanks to freshly fried squid, just enough tomato and frisee, and a slather of very spicy mayo. Excellent.
Saraghina
435 Halsey St. (at Lewis Ave.), Bedford-Stuyvesant, Brooklyn
718-574-0010
www.SaraghinaBrooklyn.com



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