Woza

This husband-and-wife team, for the time being a pop-up-only operation, relies on renditions of South African chow that are easy to prepare in a stripped-down kitchen, and easy to carry off. In a permanent setting I might have been able to accessorize my spicy minced-meat bobotie ($7) with an assortment of chutneys or sambals; these often brandish seasonings native to Indonesia and Malaysia, and spread by a common Dutch colonial heritage. (Think, too, of the "Dutch baby pancakes" at the Singaporean-influenced restaurant Masak.) Also shown: Malva pudding ($4), an island of sponge cake in a pool of thin custard.

Back when, notes Woza's website, the husband cooked at his father's cafe near Pretoria, where he prepared a fried chicken dish I'd like to try: "walkie talkies." No white meat, no dark meat; figure for yourself what chicken parts are in play.

Woza
For the time being, at various pop-up locations
949-230-4418
www.WozaNYC.com