Cuban fish joints often favor a stripped-down presentation: a lightly fried filet (occasionally including the tail), a handful of hot tostones, and half a lime is all that's needed. In Miami the workaday fishes are mahi-mahi, grouper and snapper; at Ceila's the catch of the day was flaky-fleshed flounder ($5).
Compare the minimalist approach of Chipichape Bakery toward its chunchullo, also served with twice-fried plantain and lime. Colombia and Cuba are separated by some 1,000 miles of sea, but do you detect a trans-Caribbean resemblance?
Ceila's Pescaderia
6128 Palisade Ave. (at 62nd St.), West New York, New Jersey
201-467-3372





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