Although Naples provided most of the inspiration for Argentinean pizza, fugazzeta (slice, $2.50) has its origins in the northern Italy city of Genoa. Among the many Genoans who emigrated to Buenos Aires in the late 19th and early 20th centuries was Agustín Banchero, founder of a bakery that specialized in focaccia — in the Genoese dialect, fugassa or fugazza. The basic fugazza is a hefty onion flatbread laden with onions; Banchero's son Juan developed the fugazza con queso, or fugazzeta, which adds mozzarella, and later opened a pizzeria that adopted the family name.
Today "fugazetta" suggests a style rather than a single recipe. The menus of both Banchero and Golazo! have a large list of "pizza" and a smaller list labeled "fugazzas" in Buenos Aires and "artesan pan pizza" in West New York, with several choices of toppings. At both restaurants, you can top off your order with fainá, too, but a slice of fugazetta is very filling all by itself.
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