Defonte's is virtually cut off from Carroll Gardens by the BQE and the entrance to the Brooklyn Battery Tunnel, but if ever there were a reason to walk or bike a mile out of your way for a sandwich, Defonte's is it. Above, superthin slices of eggplant, plus peppers and provolone, are at the heart of the Valentino ($10.95). Below, potato-and-egg ($10.95, plus $1.50 for Virginia ham), a "breakfast" sandwich served all day; fried shrimp ($12), one of three Friday seafood sandwiches; hot roast beef with fresh mozzarella and fried eggplant ($10.95). In this last sandwich, the thin-sliced eggplant is overwhelmed by red meat, and in the photo below crowded entirely out of sight. Better to choose a sandwich with the eggplant, or the hot roast beef and mutz, but not all at once. You can come back another day.
379 Columbia St. (at Luquer St.), Red Hook, Brooklyn
Some sandwiches ordered at the now-closed Manhattan location, 261 Third Ave. (at 21st St.)