When New York's weather turns warmer, barbecue begins to land in the most unlikely places. This BBQ tonkotsu ramen (special for May and June, $17) retains the Japanese soup's familiar noodles, scallions, and boiled egg but tops them with spicy pulled pork, vinegar slaw, and pickled chilies. In the face of a rich pork-bone broth (in this instance actually a tonkotsu shoyu, employing a soy-sauce-base), the slaw and the chilies stand up better than the pulled pork, which too quickly becomes suffused with unaccustomed flavors. Ippudo offers many great ramens topped with chashu pork loin, of course; can BBQ pork loin be too much of a stretch?
Also shown: a slightly spicy preparation of mentaiko, or cod roe, over rice. The lunch set ($3 extra) adds this, or one of several other starters, and a mini salad.
65 Fourth Ave. (9-10th Sts.), Manhattan