As at the now-departed New Chao Chow Restaurant, Vietnamese items crowd the menu. The dishes at Bo Ky that most deserve your attention, however, hail from the southern Chinese city of Chaozhou, also rendered Chao Chow, Chiu Chow, and Teo Chew.
Served "dry" — that is, with soup on the side — Teo Chew sate flat egg noodles ($5.50, a number of years ago) are layered with sprouts and thin-sliced beef, then doused with a sour meat sauce; a squeeze of lemon juice adds a fresh touch. Also shown: the house special shrimp roll ($6.75), wrapped in tofu skin, sliced, and deep-fried, and soy-sauce-braised "country style" duck (half, $9.75).
The décor at Bo Ky, such as it is, is functional but reasonably well-kept; the service can seem gruff, but only in the quintessential "what'll ya have" New York manner. It's a bargain worth exploring.
New Bo Ky Restaurant
78-80 Bayard St. (Mulberry-Mott Sts.), Manhattan
Also, as Grand Bo Ky Restaurant, at 216 Grand St. (Mott-Elizabeth Sts.)