A sotto sopra slice ($3.50), whose thin pliant crust sported ricotta, oregano, sauce, and less-visible mozzarella and garlic, with extra garlic on the side (a potent lagniappe from the counterman).
Rizzo's Fine Pizza
30-13 Steinway St. (30th-31st Aves.), Astoria, Queens
Also at 17 Clinton St. (Houston-Stanton Sts.), Manhattan