Frutas en almíbar, or fruits preserved in syrup, can be tooth-achingly sweet. Of the four shown here — naranjas Chinas, duraznos (probably), tejocotes, and camotes — the first is best at bucking that trend. Duraznos and camotes, that is, peaches and sweet potatoes, might qualify as dulces without the intervention of syrup; tejocotes, also called Mexican hawthorns, offer balance with a flavor that hints at sour plum.
Naranjas Chinas (35 pesos, or about $1.75 at the time, for about a dozen) do even better: To the sweetness of the syrup they offer a countervailing pucker, particularly as you bite through the intact, edible rinds. You may know them better as kumquats.
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