Which slice for you? This charming hand-drawn menu of cozonaci (co-zo-Nah-chee), a family of sweet Romanian breads, depicts cross-sections of nuca, stafide, mac, rahat, simplu, and ciocolata — walnut, raisin, poppy, Turkish delight, plain, and chocolate. Of course, bakers and customers just can't cut into the loaves willy-nilly to see which is which. The intact cozonaci indicate their fillings, too, by the shape of the loaf and by decoration: One wears a single walnut, another exposes a vein of poppy seeds.
Coffee and a cozonac (loaf, $8 to $10; slice, as available, $1.25) was the natural pairing for me. The menu board suggests another, however, that was enthusiastically endorsed by the counterwoman: cozonaci and wine.
Previously: In aggregate, saleuri (Sal-lee-Ooh, first photo below) resemble a break-it-apart pan flute. These savory breadsticks are enriched with butter and cheese — a tangy white variety called telemea is traditional — and sprinkled with the likes of caraway, poppy, or, at Nita's, cumin.
Sweeter, to various degrees, and from numerous other visits: a dense cake square packed with poppy seeds; raspberry-walnut rugelach; and a Linzer torte cookie. Also known as a Linzer sablé, this offspring of the fabled Austrian latticed cake customarily sports raspberry jam, though at Nita's apricot, hazelnut, and red currant reportedly also make appearances.
At one time Taste Good's kari laksa (now $7.25), with rice noodles, bean sprouts, tofu skins, chicken, shrimp, and half an out-of-place hardboiled egg, rivaled the laksas I've slurped down in Singapore and Penang; the coconut-chili gravy was particularly lip-smacking. The bowlful shown here, however, is a laksa of years past; since a change of ownership, the gravy has fallen back a step or two.
From a subsequent group dinner, the one dish I would recommend without hesitation features sizzling bean curd ($10.95) surrounding a savory pool of minced-pork sauce. The lightly fried bean curd is crispy outside, almost creamy inside.
Taste Good 82-18 45th Ave. (82nd-83rd Sts.), Elmhurst, Queens 718-898-8001
(This venue is closed.) This German-rooted provisioner's housemade ham lard — with onions, apples, herbs, and tiny cubes of schinken, or smoked pork loin — is absolutely decadent atop a crust of bread.