Order your pizza well-done. That's good advice at Sac's, where the thin crust, a hallmark of coal-oven pizzerias, might otherwise sag precariously under the liberally applied toppings. "Mama's old-fashioned pie" (medium, $14) was laden with San Marzano tomatoes, romano and fresh mozzarella cheeses, and crumbled bits of homemade meatballs ($2.50 extra) almost to a fault; it was difficult to detect the garlic and fresh basil.
Charring a coal-oven pizza also adds an ineffable extra something that cooler-burning gas-fired units can't deliver. This is less important along the lip than on the underside, in the middle of the pie, where one takes many more bites. In that second photo, note too the white speck, which at first I tried to brush away; it's actually a sparkle of light leaking through. As mentioned, thin crust.
Weightier still: melanzane rollotini ($9.95).
25-41 Broadway (at 29th St.), Astoria, Queens