"Along with a litany of hearty hot soups — shurpa, lagman, borsch — are two chilled alternatives, one Eastern, one Western. Okroshka ... hails from Russia; this milk-based version is playful, with tiny bits of egg, celery, potato and bologna. Kuksu [shown] ... from Korea, is a beef noodle soup decorated with sesame seeds, pickled cucumber, dill and cabbage. When all that's left is the restorative broth, down it straight from the bowl."
Little seems to have changed since my review of this café, staffed by Russian-speaking ethnic Koreans hailing from Tashkent, Uzbekistan, appeared in The New York Times in 2010. Prices are higher (though my latest kuksu was on the house), and the secondary name of the restaurant is now "Eddie Fancy Food" (and not "Elza"), but the ambiance is just as homey, and the boardwalk is close by. For more photos, see my collection on Flickr.
Café at Your Mother-in-Law (a.k.a. Eddie Fancy Food)
3071 Brighton 4th St. (Brighton Beach Ave.-Ocean View Ave.), Brighton Beach, Brooklyn
Also, with a few tables but more for takeout, at 8611 19th Ave. (86th St.-Benson Ave.), Bath Beach, Brooklyn