Eating In Translation

Norwegian Refreshment Tent

Why fill your belly with a bun when you can lay your hot dog on a lefse ($3)? Once rolled into shape, the potato-based flatbread did a fine job of corralling condiments, even if the refreshment tent offered nothing more exotic than Heinz relish, plus just one Scandinavian soda, orange-flavored Solo (330 ml.; $2). The parade itself has an old-time, small-town feel, especially near the shade of Leif Ericson Park.

Norwegian Refreshment Tent
Leif Ericson Park
Near 67th St. (Fifth-Sixth Aves.)
At the Norwegian Independence Day Parade

Uncle Louie G's

I first encountered Uncle Louie G's in Midwood; a scoop of root beer sorbet (small; $2) had a slightly bitter taste of, well, roots, but the uneven, grainy texture was certainly interesting. Another time, in Bay Ridge, lemon sorbet (shown; large; $3) was much smoother and more refreshing.

Uncle Louie G's
376 86th St., Bay Ridge, Brooklyn
(one of many locations)
718-724-2120

Damascus Gate

(This venue is closed.) Fatteh is a thick porridge of garlickly yogurt bolstered with bits of toasted pita.

Mejlander & Mulgannon

Though it harkens to the neighborhood's Scandinavian heritage, this grocer-caterer also serves American breakfast specials and Italian deli standards. Hafi brand lingonberry preserves (400 g.; $4.99), from Sweden, pack considerable tartness (and a little sweetness) into every jellied spoonful; the buckshot-size berries nestle happily in the pocked surface of ryecrisp.

Return visit: You might mistake Chivers gooseberry jam (400 g.; $5.49), from Ireland, for a less-tart lime, if not for the plentiful ovoid berries. Wonderful.

Mejlander & Mulgannon
7615 Fifth Ave. , Bay Ridge, Brooklyn
718-238-6666

Leske's Danish Bakery

I admit to a weakness for "hardshell" black-and-white cookies, but the Leske's version (top photo; $1.35) was an unexpectedly gooey pleasure on a fat, spongy base.

On another occasion, after five minutes of hemming and hawing, I settled on an excellent buttery apricot pastry (bottom photo $1.45). For best selection, arrive earlier in the day.

Leske's Danish Bakery
7612 Fifth Ave., Bay Ridge, Brooklyn
718-680-2323

Balady Foods

This container was packed tight, but the store is roomier and better-stocked than many other Middle Eastern groceries in the borough.

Tanoreen

Linger a few moments before the display case and its amazing array of Middle Eastern mezze, and you may wonder how you'll ever narrow down your order. (Your server will happily provide all the guidance you could want, but perhaps it's easier simply to bring along a few more friends.) The basics — housemade za'atar bread, smooth lemon-and garlic-scented hummus, and lightly smoky babaghanouj — are exemplary; you'll also find the babaghanouj layered on the crispy eggplant napoleon (top photo; $6.50) and topped with chopped tomato and basil salad.

A deceptively humble "salad" of browned cauliflower buds (middle photo; $5.50), topped with tahini sauce, pomegranate syrup, and parsley, is easily shared but best positioned within arm's reach. Also highly recommended: musakhan ($6), to all appearances a personal pizza topped with chicken, caramelized onion, sumac, spices, roasted nuts, and olive oil.

Leave adequate room (and give the kitchen 20 minutes' notice) for the knafeh (bottom photo; $12), a dessert of shredded phyllo stuffed with sweet cheese, baked, and topped with syrup and pistachios. Sharable by six, though at my table I'd insist on fewer, fatter slices.

Tanoreen
7704 Third Ave. (77th-78th Sts.), Brooklyn
718-748-5600
Closed Monday

Nordic Delicacies

One of the few places in Bay Ridge — formerly home to a sizable Scandanavian community — where you can still find lingonberries, lutefisk, and several varieties of the soft-bodied, sweet, caramelized cheese product called gjetost (Yet-oast). From Norway, the Ski Queen brand (250 g.; $4.99) quickly became tiring, even when sliced thin and paired with the traditional ryecrisp. It needs a saltier soulmate, but I haven't found the right one gjet.

Nordic Delicacies
6909 Third Ave., Bay Ridge, Brooklyn
718-478-1874

Alsalam Restaurant and Meat Market

Deli counter and a few seats up front; mildly unkempt grocery in back is filled with enticing aromas that invite exploration. Ramzy Licorice drink mix (approx. 200 g.; $3.49) hails from Syria; it improves with a spoonful of sugar, but the taste, even the aroma, won't let you forget that it's made from a root.

Alsalam Restaurant and Meat Market
7206 Fifth Ave., Bay Ridge, Brooklyn
718-921-1076

Najjar Pastry

Closer in spirit to a sweets shop, with many items that originate outside the Middle East. This familiar-looking 12-pack of chewing gum (75 cents) made the reverse commute from Lebanon.

Najjar Pastry
7207 Fifth Ave., Bay Ridge, Brooklyn
718-833-5252

Zahran Fresh Meat and Groceries

Interesting mishmash of goods; would be more exciting if it weren't so close to Balady Foods. A pull-tab can of Schweppes tangerine soda (330 ml.; $1) was refreshing enough.

Zahran Fresh Meat and Groceries
7618 Fifth Ave., Bay Ridge, Brooklyn
718-748-6272

Mazza Plaza

On its own, "zaatar" can describe a Middle Eastern spice mixture, which at Mazza's is simply thyme and "soumack," plus sesame seeds. Spread with a little olive oil on dough, it also names a mini-pizza ($1.25) thin enough to be folded in two.

Mazza Plaza
8002 Fifth Ave., Bay Ridge, Brooklyn
718-238-9576

Café Victoria

Friendly little corner café that makes its own ice cream and sorbet. A cup of stracchiatella (vanilla with chocolate chips; $2.50) had a pleasant grainy texture.

Café Victoria
7924 Third Ave. (at 79th St.), Brooklyn
718-921-3884

Hinsch's

They may still have a full menu at this old-time soda fountain; I've only ordered ice cream to go. A scoop of cherry in a cone ($2.25) was a pale beige-pink, with lots of fruit chunks.

Hinsch's
8518 Fifth Ave. (85th-86th Sts), Brooklyn
718-748-2854

Scandinavian vendor table

An open-faced sandwich of sliced egg and "syl" — some sort of fish — was perfectly nice as a snack, but I'd hoped more Scandinavian food would be available at the Viking Fest. Fortunately Sue, Jim, and I had lined up a good prospect for a proper meal.

Scandinavian vendor table
(booth at Viking Fest 2005, at Owl's Head Park)

Samm's

A too-crispy vegetable dumpling might have tipped me off, but still I thought that the little plate of meatballs could be Scandinavian. In fact, Samm's is an Italian restaurant, with a pretty good reputation, that for some reason was one of the few food vendors at the Viking Fest.

Samm's
8901 Third Ave. (89th-90th Sts.), Brooklyn
(booth at Viking Fest 2005, at Owl's Head Park)
718-238-0606