Conch provided chewiness, cabbage offered a contrasting crunch, and "spicy sauce" delivered stinging slaps to the tastebuds with each bite of larb hoi ($15.95). From the familiar 1-to-5 spiciness scale, 3 is the preferred level for my waitress, she confided. This was merely a 2; my aim was to eat adventurously, not heroically.
Also shown: A detail from the facade of a nearby dry cleaner, taken during an unplanned hour's walk around the neighborhood. The schedule posted on the restaurant's website may not be absolutely up-to-date; call ahead to confirm.
H/T David Druce (by private communication)
Pho Thai-Lao Kitchen
219 Maywood Ave. (at West Hunter Ave.), Maywood, New Jersey