The modest decor of Bensonhurst's Silver Star and the Polynesian getup of Chan's Dragon Inn could hardly be more different. Even the purplish flame that flickered in our faces (and over the countenance of the totemlike figure on the war shield hanging close by) had a more exotic glow. Our mission, however, was unchanged: to hunt down the Americanized Chinese food of our youth.
Though the pu pu platter was adequate to set the scene, the tiki drinks (said my dining buddies) were less than potent. Fried rice and shrimp in lobster sauce were good; portions of roast pork Hawaii, however, went unclaimed. War shu opp was oversauced and skimpy; this pressed-duck dish had been the hit of the evening at Silver Star. But butterfly shrimp, which fell flat in Brooklyn, soared at Chan's. For these two precious dishes, war shu opp and butterfly shrimp, if only we could choose one from restaurant A and one from restaurant B...
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Chan's Dragon Inn
630 Broad St. (Edgewater Ave.-Banta Pl.), Ridgefield, New Jersey