Kaya, a coconut egg spread, is a coffee-shop favorite in Singapore and Malaysia. Some versions are browner, owing to caramelized sugar, and jamlike in texture; some, such as the Thai-style sangkhaya in this khanom pan ping ($5), take a green color and faint herbal flavor from pandan leaves and have a very smooth, custardlike texture. This uncaramelized style tends to be quite sweet, too, as you'd imagine. Pok Pok's pan-toasted "soldiers" were just precisely crisp enough to serve as swabbing utensils; the serving of sangkhaya was generous enough that every soldier got his due.
Previously: In some obvious regards, my hoi thawt (at the time, $14) wasn't a ringer for the "broken crepe" served at Bangkok's expansive Aw Taw Gaw wet market. Pok Pok's was fresher-looking and considerably fatter, down to the individual mussel meats. Yet the hoi thawt held together, thanks to a minimal not-too-crispy batter, at least till I had at it.
I don't know what hot sauce was served with that Bangkok hoi thawt, but one wouldn't imagine that Huy Fong sriracha sauce — the ubiquitous American-made "rooster" brand found in squeeze bottles throughout New York — would have many takers in Thailand. Possibly it was the well-balanced Shark brand sriracha, made in Thailand, and served at Pok Pok, too.
Pok Pok Ny
117 Columbia St. (at Kane St.), Brooklyn