My afternoon nosh, smoked butterfish ($3.74, at $16.99 per pound), came from the refrigerator counter at the back of the market and not from the bargain bins out front. The flesh is unusually fatty and oily, and it would have been wise to squeeze back through the crowds to grab a fork. Instead, I made do, and fixed in my mind the less-appealing definition of "fish fingers."
Gold Label International Food
281 Brighton Beach Ave. (Brighton 2nd-Brighton 3rd Sts.), Brighton Beach, Brooklyn