If Edna's had seats, people might park themselves here all afternoon. But there's just one windowside ledge, standing room only, looking out on the passing traffic along the border of Bed-Stuy and Brownsville. A more enticing view, with all its attendant aromas, was right up close: rosemary chicken with cabbage and collard greens (small, $5). The cabbage, interspersed with slivers of carrot, was well-dosed with black pepper; the greens, flavored with bits of turkey wing, were not bitter in the least. Nice chicken skin; too bad you can't order extra skin on the side.
Griddled-meat sandwiches, few seats. You can find a "steak and take" joint here and there in the five boroughs, but it's easier closer to Philadelphia, where the term probably first took hold (Philly cheesesteaks are always on the menu). At Good Brothers, the namesake sandwich includes chopped onions and bell peppers and a special sauce or two. As a lunch special ($5), the steak and take also comes with great fat fries and a drink.
Side note: I've read more than one unconvincing origin story about Pittsburgh sandwiches with fries between the bread. Could the inspiration be as simple as a tight-packed takeout container?
Good Brothers Steak and Take 110 Osborn St. (Pitkin-Belmont Aves.), Brownsville, Brooklyn 718-342-5289
This long-gone restaurant is not to be confused with the nearby, celebrated Little Oriental — which, to be sure, was a Romanian steakhouse. Also: signs for current hardware and furniture stores, and for a vanished haberdasher.
Wu Han Tea Garden 1533 Pitkin Ave. (Strauss St.-Saratoga Ave.), Brownsville, Brooklyn