Even better than a Cuban sandwich: half a Cuban and half a "Meridian," split 50-50 with a dining buddy ($16 all in). The first partners traditional roast pork, swiss, and ham with grain mustard and zippy horseradish-brined pickles; the second (also shown in closeup) is essentially a ham-and-swiss with hot-pepper-guava jelly, spicy and sweet.
Both employ Jersey-made Cuban bread that the bakery identifies as pan de manteca — lard included. It takes on a splendid golden color when pressed in the plancha.
Cafeteria La Mejor
191 Suydam St. (Wilson-Central Aves.), Bushwick, Brooklyn
(one of two locations)