Breakfast rolls: stuffed fish paste fried fritter ($3.95); dried shrimp rice noodle roll ($3.50).
Mei Lai Wah (also known as Mei Li Wah)
62-64 Bayard St. (Mott-Elizabeth Sts.), Manhattan
www.MeiLiWah.com (a website, though as dated as the photo below, that's still good for perusing the bill of fare)