Years ago in Guangzhou, I chanced upon an outdoor restaurant where almost everyone was working on a plateful of noodles. First formed into thin sheets, the noodles had been rolled into rods and then cut into pieces. They were served only with soy sauce and sesame seeds; the main appeal was in the relative firmness of the noodles, once rolled.
The rolls in this rendition — called to my attention thanks to the typically exhaustive scouting of Chowhound regular Chandavki — were not as snug as in Guangzhou, but the layered noodles still offered a very pleasing chewiness. The counterman referred to these noodles as chee cheong fun, a name that I had wrongly lumped together with cheong fun. Unless you speak Cantonese, you may do better with the menu's English name, steam rice rolls ($6.50). These were stir-fried with vegetables, mushrooms, and soy sauce; a tempting-sounding alternative is topped with beef stew.
85 Chinese Restaurant
85 Chrystie St. (Grand-Hester Sts.), Manhattan