I was window shopping on a full stomach and didn't step inside to ask about this fish, much less order it. It sure looks like a species that's flown on the shuttle but that's usually tossed back by anglers (not much meat, word has it). Is this an oyster toadfish? Ever tried one?
Jing Star Seafood Restaurant 27 Division St. (Market-Catherine Sts.) 212-219-8498
My dining brief on this small Chinatown restaurant, and on the Hong Kong-style claypot rice called bo zai fan, appears in the July 21, 2010 edition of The New York Times. For additional photos (leave room for dessert!), see my slideshow.
The current ground-floor tenant is a Taoist temple, but according to anecdotal accounts, more than a century ago the building hosted McKeon's Saloon, where a young Irving Berlin worked as a singing waiter. The only newspaper article I can find on the saloon, from 1894 ("These Were Strong Knockout Drops"), gives it an address on "Christie St.," but it's very possible there was more than one McKeon's. It's certain that the demographics of the neighborhood were far different than today: A name such as "Oriental" would have been added to the roofline only long before Chinatown was Chinatown.
Close by the Manhattan Bridge overpass, Yi Mei is one of twin (unrelated) Fujianese eateries that serve your choice of four hot items, plus white rice and pale broth, for $3.50.
This is one of several print shops in the immediate neighborhood (others can be found on Allen St. north of Canal) that specialize in Chinese menus. Despite the sound-alike, of course, "Sino" has nothing to do with signs; it's a Latin-derived prefix pertaining to China. To my knowledge, Sino Graphic doesn't devise neon, awnings, or other large displays; for those you'll need to look elsewhere, friend-o.
Sino Graphic 120 Madison St. (Catherine-Market Sts.) 212-374-1848
This mornings-only cart sells beef noodles ($1.25) so lissome they might almost be called soft-serve. The cart is virtually unmarked; the surest way to distinguish it is by the sight, through a fogged side window, of several racks of eggs at the ready. I've yet to see them cracked.
Noodle cart Hester St. near the northeast corner with Elizabeth St. Closes by early afternoon