Ratchanee Sumpatboon, previously of Poodam's and Zabb Elee, is now serving her fiery and pungent Isan Thai cuisine in Hell's Kitchen. Less-daring dishes are also available, especially on the lunch special menu, such as this bowl of ba mee ($9), thin egg noodles with roasted pork, lump crab meat, and yu choy. Mine was a "dry" order, that is, with the soup (not shown) served separately, beside a small, tart papaya salad.
Also: i tim bo ran ($5), coconut ice cream topped with palm seeds, corn, peanuts, and torn bits of bread. The dessert menu identified this presentation as "Thai-style," but according to my server a more literal translation would be "old-school."
480 Ninth Ave. (36th-37th Sts.), Manhattan