Eating In Translation

Pure Thai Cookhouse

The kitchen, too, can adjust the seasoning, even before you reach for the fish sauce.

Bombay Deli Pizza & Tandoori Restaurant

Behind door number one of this twin-track business on the outskirts of the Garment District, a steam table proffered quite serviceable chicken tikka masala.

Meskerem

It's the thicker picker-upper.

Gazala Place

"Secret nest."

"Fresh! ESPO flavor"

This chewing-gum package with a Beeman's palette was proffered by Steve Powers, an erstwhile graffiti artist whose previous works include ESPO Bakery.

"Fresh! ESPO flavor"
Steve Powers (ESPO), date unknown
West 40th St. near the southeast corner with Ninth Ave.

Franco-American Baking Company

No apparent relation to the Franco-American Food Company, whose most famous product is now sold under the Campbell's brand name. A map of Hudson Yards Redevelopment Sites indicates that a planned midblock park will spare the building, passing just to the west; it also shows that if you can see the Franco-American sign, the south tube of the Lincoln Tunnel is immediately below your feet.

Surviving sign for the Franco American Baking Company
509 West 38th St. (Tenth-Eleventh Aves.)

Holey Cream

For a change, not with chocolate.

Xie Xie

(This venue is closed.) Ironically, dill is the most authentic component.

West African Grocery

Ghanaian entrée simmering on the stovetop? No time to ferment and steam your own corn "sourdough"?

Rudy's Bar & Grill

Rudy's mascot is masked against human flu, you'd hope, and not because he took it personal, that bit about "a crying disgrace...they saw your face." In addition to assorted alcoholic remedies (but no big black cow), Rudy's is famous for dispensing free hot dogs. What meat is inside, the masked mascot won't say.

Rudy's Bar & Grill
627 Ninth Ave. (44th-45th Sts.)
212-974-9169
www.RudysBarNYC.com

Sullivan St. Bakery

Sparing but not spartan.

International Grocery

Go for the gold.

Poseidon Greek Bakery

The phyllo is exquisitely flaky.

"Hell's Kitchen" mural

The nearly 50 flags on this playground mural, you'd imagine, represent the "extremely diverse student body" of the Adolph S. Ochs School (click on the photo for a better look). PS/IS 111 is a "community school," the website also notes, so the students live within walking distance of dozens of ethnic restaurants — but imagine how much home cooking can be found only behind closed doors!

"Hell's Kitchen" mural
Playground of the Adolph S. Ochs School (P.S. 111)
Tenth Ave. between 52nd and 53rd Sts.

Wondee Siam

It's won praise from one surprising quarter.

Tehuitzingo

Squeeze past the deli-grocery in front, and you'll find even fresher treats in back.

Azuri Café

Sometimes the fixings upstage the falafel.

Hallo Berlin Express

This is much easier to manage when you have a place to sit.

Roofline above Hallo Berlin Express

While I waited for the eatery to open, near the roofline I noticed raised letters that read "9th. Ave. Flat." (Click on this or any other photo for a better look.) Many of these inscriptions were intended as advertisements directed at passengers on the Columbus Ave. elevated train. Also known as the Ninth Ave. El, it reportedly stood, at least in part, until the 1950s.

Surviving signage for a "9th. Ave. Flat."
744 Ninth Ave. (50th-51st Sts.), rooftop level

Red Bull Chaser?

An odd couple of delivery vans making their rounds.

Red Bull and Pat La Frieda delivery vans
Ninth Ave. between 50th and 51st Sts.