Eating In Translation

Kafana

Grilled meats are at the center of the action, with pork in a supporting role.

Health Conscious Express

Even my dessert was decked out in Rasta colors.

Hummus Place

Another place to dip your pita.

Vinny Vincenz

The skinny on Vinny.

Birdbath

Crusty outside, intriguing inside.

99 Miles to Philly

The Philly folks literally hailed a passing Tasty Kakes truck to secure their supply.

Artichoke

If you love the texture of extra-creamy creamed spinach, here's a slice to try. The topping on this artichoke-and-spinach pizza (slice; $3) was very rich and moist, and if the crust was a tad heavier than it needed to be, chalk it up to spring training: This East Village relation of a Staten Island oldtimer has been up and running for less than a month. Give them a chance to hit their midseason form — and when you do stop by, take a look at what else is good that day, too.

Artichoke
328 East 14th St. (First-Second Aves.)
212-228-2004

Ippudo

The broth had a wonderful depth of flavor, but the toppings on this "shiromaru N.Y. style" ($13) — tonkotsu soup with stewed pork, cabbage, and scallions — left me flat. The ramen noodles were very thin, and firm. I sampled Ippudo's signature ramen during their soft opening, so I'll certainly visit them again, but only after they've had some time to settle into their routine.

Ippudo
65 Fourth Ave. (9-10th Sts.)
212-388-0088

Muzzarella Pizza

When the topping is as moist as on this tomato-and-pesto focaccia ($1.75), you'll appreciate a crust that's especially crisp. Not big, but a nice bite. I don't know that I'll venture the pasta menu at this tiny Southern Italian joint — despite a couple of tables, they seem set up mainly for takeout — but I'll definitely have a go at the heroes.

Muzzarella Pizza
221 Ave. A (13th-14th Sts.)
212-614-0905

B Cup East Village Café

The coffee (larger, "B cup" size; $1.75) is standard, and I can't speak for the sandwich-and-salad menu, but I like the mural outside.

B Cup East Village Café
212 Ave. B (at 13th St.)
212-228-4808
www.bcupcafe.com

Crif Dogs

The standard “crif dog” ($2.50) is snappy enough, though it begs to be decked out with some toppings.

Raul Candy Store

Raul’s is laid out less like a money-making enterprise than a small social club; on my most recent visit, a few fellows in folding chairs chatted with the proprietor, while a television played quietly in back. Inexpensive, too, though the selection is small. Coco Rico coconut soda (12 fl. oz.; about 75 cents), from Puerto Rico, is mildly flavored; nothing special.

Raul Candy Store
205 Ave. B (12th-13th Sts.)

Pasta Wafu

Nearly hidden behind Ramen Setagaya and under the same ownership, Pasta Wafu adds an Asian twist to a familiar European cuisine ("Wafu" means "Japanese style"). Though thin-sliced garlic was the top note in this tangle of mentaiko pasta ($14), the tomato broth was also flavored by basil, sundried tomato, and the namesake spicy cod roe. (You can get a better view of the glitterlike roe by clicking on the photo.) It's a linguine to linger over.

Pasta Wafu
141 First Ave. (St. Marks Pl.-9th St., behind Ramen Setagaya)
212-529-2746

Pommes Frites

The twice-fried fries may be just a shade too thick for perfection, but these rough-cut babies come pretty darn close.

Tuck Shop

Resistance is futile.

Pinisi Café & Bakery

On the prowl for sarabba, I was disappointed to find that the Indonesian restaurant Borobudur had given way to an Italian pastry shop.

SobaKoh

Soba, plain, hot.

Himalayan Café

When the weather gets cold, survival instincts step forward.

Sigiri

At this cozy walk-up Sri Lankan restaurant, the décor is cute, the sambals are mouth-numbing.

Astor Place Hair

Used to be, two bits got you a shave and a haircut.

Grand Sichuan St. Marks

This sincere Sichuan restaurant supplies its own great pumpkin.

Pistahan

Pancit guisado (Pan-sit gwee-Sah-doe, or "noodles mixed"; $7.95) was one of several pancit variations on the menu of this Filipino restaurant and bakeshop. Sadly, the bihon (thin rice noodles), sotanghon (cellophane noodles, made from mung beans) and canton (egg) noodles were stir-fried with "sea legs" and nearly flavorless chicken and shrimp, plus American-leaning vegetables including carrots, cabbage, and perhaps broccoli.

Pistahan
229 First Ave. (13th-14th Sts.)
212-228-9000

Australian Homemade

Vanilla ice cream (small; $3.25) was extremely smooth. Nothing out of the ordinary, just a very good vanilla. On later visits: The kiwi turned out to be tame — I wish it were wild and tart — but I hanker after the strawberry-banana, and I kvell on the Belgian chocolate.

Australian Homemade
115 St. Mark's Pl. (First Ave.-Ave. A)
212-228-5439
www.australianhomemade.com

East Village Ice Cream

A small cone of chocolate chip mint ice cream (special; $3) gave substance to the mantra on the awning: "homemade, natural, fresh." There's no mistaking real mint, especially when the sugar is dialed back a notch. The ice cream was firm, dense, and just a tad grainy; kiddies might be disappointed, unless you accustom them to the good stuff early.

Enzo's

"Bruschetta" identifies bread that's been toasted, rubbed with garlic, and drizzled with olive oil (the order varies, depending on who's in the kitchen), then topped with a variety of ingredients — most famously, diced tomatoes. That's surely how these pizza makers named their "bruschetta slice" ($2.75), whose thin, floppy crust was overloaded with a two-tone topping.

Enzo's
50 Second Ave. (2nd-3rd Sts.)
212-353-3388