In truth, most of the caddies were better kitted out, but the condiments at my table were perfectly suited to a combo of cauliflower and lamb splashed with black-peppery sauce (Wednesday special, $9): No seasoning was needed. I'd only wish for more cauliflower, less potato.
Kashmir 9 (also known as Cuisine of Pakistan) 478 Ninth Ave. (36th-37th Sts.), Manhattan 212-736-7745
Ratchanee Sumpatboon, previously of Poodam's and Zabb Elee, is now serving her fiery and pungent Isan Thai cuisine in Hell's Kitchen. Less-daring dishes are also available, especially on the lunch special menu, such as this bowl of ba mee ($9), thin egg noodles with roasted pork, lump crab meat, and yu choy. Mine was a "dry" order, that is, with the soup (not shown) served separately, beside a small, tart papaya salad.
Also: i tim bo ran ($5), coconut ice cream topped with palm seeds, corn, peanuts, and torn bits of bread. The dessert menu identified this presentation as "Thai-style," but according to my server a more literal translation would be "old-school."
"Breakfast at Bickford's" was a tradition, or at the least a dependable fallback, for many New Yorkers during the middle of the last century. These quick-service food shops — under the same ownership, they also went by other names in the Northeast and in the Miami and San Francisco areas — fell into decline during the 1960s and, in New York, disappeared entirely during the 1980s.
The signage seen here was reportedly uncovered in 2000, when a deteriorating metal facade was taken down outside another vanishing breed of New York business, the adult entertainment center.
Bickford's Surviving signage at 488 Eighth Ave. (34th-35th Sts.), Manhattan
Diner, not a diner. Though I've never set foot inside Harrie's and can't vouch for the current menu, its swaying lantern brought to mind the yearlong transformation of the Mill, near Columbia University, from luncheonette to Korean restaurant. The Mill's scrambled-egg breakfast special is a thing of the past, but the egg cream and lime rickey are still in play.