Eating In Translation

Bickford's

"Breakfast at Bickford's" was a tradition, or at the least a dependable fallback, for many New Yorkers during the middle of the last century. These quick-service food shops — under the same ownership, they also went by other names in the Northeast and in the Miami and San Francisco areas — fell into decline during the 1960s and, in New York, disappeared entirely during the 1980s.

The signage seen here was reportedly uncovered in 2000, when a deteriorating metal facade was taken down outside another vanishing breed of New York business, the adult entertainment center.

Bickford's
Surviving signage at 488 Eighth Ave. (34th-35th Sts.), Manhattan

Cafe Niagara

(This venue is closed.) The name is the proprietor's nod to a "beautiful" vacation spot in upstate New York; the map hung near the door portrays his first home, Sri Lanka.

Bombay Deli Pizza & Tandoori Restaurant

Behind door number one of this twin-track business on the outskirts of the Garment District, a steam table proffered quite serviceable chicken tikka masala.

Harrie's

Diner, not a diner. Though I've never set foot inside Harrie's and can't vouch for the current menu, its swaying lantern brought to mind the yearlong transformation of the Mill, near Columbia University, from luncheonette to Korean restaurant. The Mill's scrambled-egg breakfast special is a thing of the past, but the egg cream and lime rickey are still in play.

Harrie's
1407 Broadway (38th-39th Sts.)
212-221-3666

Best Bagel & Coffee

Between the translucent inner wrap and the sandwich itself — that's one of the few places I'm happy to see seepage.

Fuji Bakery & Cafe

The sloppy brown steam table looks like a miss; I can't speak for anything that might emerge, to order, from the kitchen.

Brucha Caterer

(Brucha is still a going concern, but lately, the truck hasn't been seen 'round these parts.) They come from B&H.

West African Grocery

Ghanaian entrée simmering on the stovetop? No time to ferment and steam your own corn "sourdough"?

Soul Fixins'

It's an even better deal if you've just dropped some bucks at B&H.

Go! Go! Curry!

Even the "single" sized serving of this Japanese joint's katsu curry ($7.50) provided a sliced-up slab of panko-crusted pork cutlet atop a nearly equal expanse of white rice. Both found comfort in a pool of heavy, black-peppery sauce that made the merest nod toward sweetness. White shreds of cabbage offered crunchy contrast; so did a bright red heap of fukujinzuke ($1), a traditional accompaniment of soy-sauce-pickled radish.

Go! Go! Curry!
273 West 38th Street (near Eighth Ave.)
212-730-5555
www.GoGoCurryUSA.com

International Grocery

Go for the gold.

Horn and Hardart

Though it's not completely readable from street level, this sign probably pointed hungry New Yorkers to the automat at 1557 Broadway, between 46th and 47th streets. The city's first Horn & Hardart, it opened in 1912 and survived longer than most, giving way to a Burger King in the mid-1970s.

You won't get the same spirit from the tiny, unrelated Bamn! automat on St. Mark's Place — even if you make allowances for different eras of pop music, the pink detailing is a deal-breaker — but my deep-fried peanut butter and jelly sandwich wasn't half-bad.

Surviving signage for Horn & Hardart
West 38th Street (seen from Seventh Ave.)

Ben's Kosher Delicatessen

A sandwich, or maybe half a sandwich, is the way to go.

Salumeria Biellese

This old-time sausage maker really piles it on.

Mitchel London Pizza

At this fraternal twin of Burgers & Cupcakes, my sandwich ($7.95) pressed beef meatballs — oniony, but a bit undercooked and soggy — between warm ciabatta. Good overall; credit also the sauce and the greens.

Mitchel London Pizza
456 Ninth Ave. (35th-36th Sts.)
212-563-7741

Shorty's

Several years ago, when this eatery opened as an outpost of the Philly chain Tony Luke's, the interior was stark, white, and strictly a standup operation. No seats, just a narrow counter along each side wall and a window at the back. Only the handwritten "We Are Open" sign, and reports of one particular sandwich, encouraged me to step inside.

Djerdan

The belly-filling bill of fare at this Balkan restaurant includes a cevapi sandwich ($10.95) that wedges ten of the skinless grilled-veal sausages into an oversized, pita-like somun; it's sided with chopped onion and the tomato-pepper condiment called ajvar.

Dimple

Fresh-mixed it was, but my chosen chaat fell flat. Kachori bhel ($5.50) comprised puffed crisps with beans, pulses, and "kachori potatoes" (were they batter-fried? I'm simply not sure) in "sauce and mint water" that wetted down the mix.

As for this masala Coke ($2.50), it was a lightly spiced soda that doesn't bear reordering.

Premises are no more than you'd expect for a Garment District feeding spot, but the staff are friendly and the long menu plays numerous riffs on many themes; I'd be willing to pay another visit.

Dimple
11 West 30th St. (Fifth-Sixth Aves.)
212-643-9464

Madison Square Garden

A foot-long frank ($5.25) was dry; a box of popcorn ($4.25) had a damp texture. The Rangers and Penguins played an uninspired match, too, but at least the blueshirts won.

Madison Square Garden
Seventh Ave. at 33rd St.

Blarney Stone

For a Rangers pre-game snack, I passed up a $3 knockwurst sandwich in favor of tenderloin ($7) slathered in A1 sauce. Not so tender, but plenty meaty.

Blarney Stone
106 West 32nd St. (Sixth-Seventh Aves.)