This Persian plate ($12) would look humdrum if not for the sumac powder and saffron water that decorate the basmati rice. That's too bad. Kabab diggi, the sauteed ground beef shown at top left, is quite good; fesenjan, below it — shredded duck in a pomegranate walnut sauce — is terrific, especially for the tartness of the pomegranate.
The chef-owner first attracted attention with his ash reshteh, which he offered at pop-up wintertime markets; he now serves this thick noodle soup, and three or four other dishes each day, from the front corner of a Flatiron pizzeria. (At less-busy hours, you may be offered samples of the lot, commentary included.) The setting is unglamorous, but it does offer seats and ready access to fountain soda.
Taste of Persia
12 West 18th St. (Fifth-Sixth Aves., inside Pizza Paradise), Manhattan