Some of these Afghan kolcha (about $8 per pound) will remind you of familiar American cookies, particularly the pale, pistachio-topped, melt in-the-mouth items up front. The brittle triangles are a little less sweet; their golden color presages the flavor of corn. The smaller round variety, whose indented tops sport a patch of nigella seeds, are actually salty; the counterman proclaimed them "good with tea." Over the course of several days, to my surprise, they proved to be the most compelling of the lot.
75-01 Parsons Blvd. (at Kissena Blvd.), Pomonok, Queens