Hakka cuisine carries on the heritage of a people who emigrated to Taiwan (and many other countries) from Guangdong and surrounding regions of southern China. Rare in New York, the delicacies at this pop-up stall (each $2, or mix and match any three for $5) are dear to the heart of the local Taiwanese community. They're simple in concept, but execution is everything.
Shown: chao a kueh, whose filling of radish, mushroom, and soy "ham" is encased in a doughy wrapper of glutinous rice flour and an herb called mugwort; wah guay, featuring that same savory trio atop a steamed rice-flour "bowl cake"; ang ku kueh, "turtle" cakes with sweet fillings fashioned from red or green beans; and an item for which the only name I could gather was mi gao ("rice cake," which might apply to any of these items). Shot through with sesame seeds, pine nuts, and raisins, the loosely affiliated grains of glutinous rice were breathtakingly moist and fragrant.
Taiwan Hakka Delicacies
Stall at Flushing Night Out, on the lawn outside Flushing High School, 35-01 Union St. (35th Ave.-Northern Blvd.), Flushing, Queens
Repeats July 29, August 12, and August 26, 2016