The name pane cunzato (Pah-nay coon-Zah-toe; regularly $5; comped) literally means "dressed bread." In Sicily, whose surrounding waters were the longtime fishing grounds of the Ca'pisci proprietor, fish are invariably part of the dressing. Here tuna keeps company with capers, onion, and brilliant red cherry tomatoes, all of them tossed with oregano, mint, and olive oil.
Many of those same sparkling flavors were also applied, in a different fashion, to spiedini di gamberi and other skewered, grilled items. The shrimp on my spiedino ($6) were rolled in seasoned bread crumbs — so it was the bread that dressed the seafood, in this case, and not the other way 'round.
At Smorgasburg, 90 Kent Ave. (North 7th-North 8th Sts.), Williamsburg, Brooklyn
Saturdays during the warmer months