Though I make good-faith efforts to eat my greens, sometimes I'm thwarted by culinary traditions that tend to offer few options. The menu at this Polish dining hall includes a half-dozen salads; the others feature carrots, red cabbage, sauerkraut, cole slaw, and beets. The last salad on the list was the most promising choice, but even for cucumbers mine were unusually pale. The greenest thing in sight, as it happened, was the garnish on a stiff wad of mashed potatoes and the comparatively tender chunks of tongue in horseradish sauce ($7.50).
On this weekday afternoon, Pyza's back room was dark; many of the tables in the front room were taken by solo diners, like me, oriented toward a TV screen mounted high at one end. At casual restaurants such as this that offer cuisine from back home, television programming from back home is a common amenity. During one lunch at Chipichape Bakery, in Sunnyside, I could follow along with the Colombian-accented Spanish; here, the newscast was in a language I neither speak nor read. Keeping up with current events, however, provides more context for televised news than you might think. When the president of a certain soccer federation took his leave amid a corruption scandal, I learned it first from the headline SZEF FIFA REZYGNUJE.
118 Nassau Ave. (Eckford St.-McGuinness Blvd.), Greenpoint, Brooklyn