Too-slow service, but a not-bad view of the Pearl River, for big, chewy roast oysters (six for Y30) and durian "pancakes" (Y25) stuffed with cream.
Tonight's riverscape aside, Guangzhou has been very dreary; Hong Kong tomorrow will be none too soon.
The Rose Garden Club
Shamian Island, Guangzhou
A leek bao (Y0.5) was too bready.
Dumpling and Bun Vendor
Changshou Xilu at Wenchang Lu, Guangzhou
A plain doughnut (Y1.3): airy, oily, nice.
Corner Snack Storefront
Huagui Lu at Longjin Xilu, Guangzhou
The Fifth Season guava juice drink (330 ml.; about Y2) was OK, but what's with the camo packaging?
Kwik Market
Longjin Xilu, Guangzhou
(one of many locations)
On closer inspection, two black-and-white treats (Y1) — one black with a white spot, one white with a black spot — were poured from the same glutinous rice mould. Pretty much the same minimal flavor, too. Just think glutinous.
Sweets Shop
25 Baohua Zhengzhongyue, off Baohua Lu, Guangzhou
The fans and fluorescent lights in the canopy of this alleyway restaurant were strung with such a tangle of wiring that a building inspector would find himself reaching for a fresh summons book. Closer to ground level, the situation was much simpler; most most every table was working on a plateful of pasta, in a little soy sauce (Y2). These "noodles" were actually thin sheets that had been rolled into rods, then cut into bite-sized pieces — simple, satisfying fare even a civil servant couldn't fault.
Outdoor Noodle Eatery
Shiwufu 3 Xiang, off Baohua Lu, Guangzhou
Chicken noodle soup with mushrooms and baby shrimp (Y3). Fine.
Cooked-Food Storefront
40 Baohua Lu, Guangzhou
Trio of late-night baked snacks (Y4.5 total): a chicken-and-egg bun, an egg yolk pastry, and this exceptionally satisfying peanut butter wedge.
Bakery
465 Huanshi Donglu, Guangzhou
Kiwi slushy (Y4).
Slushy and Snack Corner Store
Yushan Lu at Beijing Lu, Guangzhou
Quench (250 ml.; Y2). Just barely.
Fengxing Milk
Guangta Lu, Guangzhou
Scored two lobes of Thai durian (Y7), then found a quiet spot to enjoy it, downwind from prying noses.
Durian Vendor
Off Wenchang Beilu, Guangzhou
Midday snack: a bowlful of chitlins and taro (Y3) with hoisin sauce and hot sauce. Anyway, I think that was taro.
Chitlins Stand
Shifu Plaza, near the Dishifu Lu entrance, Guangzhou
Shapes up like an egg-and-chive pancake on a sesame bun (Y2) but comes across plainer than it looks.
Bakery
165-1 Shanmulan Lu, Guangzhou
Very kind of this vendor to comp me on some vinegared chicken feet, but I just can't get past the rubbery texture, whatever the flavor.
Market near Qingping Lu
Shanmulan Lu entrance, Guangzhou
